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Sevilla was the third stop on our honeymoon, and compared to Porto (which came to us very easily), Sevilla was a bit of a tough nut to crack. We were introduced to siestas, which are amazing but will throw off your daily routine, as well as the tapas style of eating, which is also amazing, but will throw off your 3 meals a day if you’re that type of eater.

We were there for four days, and by the end, we had finally figured out the unique way this Andalucian city breathes (always check hours before going somewhere, places will often be closed for a few hours in the afternoon). The first thing you’ll notice about Sevilla is how beautiful it is…Moorish and Gothic architecture are peppered throughout, with the diverted Guadalquivir river separating it from the now incorporated neighborhood of Triana. Unlike Barcelona (where we went after) Sevilla felt uniquely Spanish, holding on to what makes Spain so great.

We opted to stay a little outside the tourist center in the Feria neighborhood and would definitely recommend you do the same, it’s a more local vibe and the city is compact enough that walking is always an option. By the end of our time here, we seemed to have a good feel of day to day life, and half-jokingly suggested we move, as we felt very at home.

Where We Ate

El Rinconcillo: We ate on the ground floor of this tapas bar (there’s a restaurant upstairs) that opened in 1670 as our first stop in Sevilla. We were very lucky to get a spot at the bar and ordered some wine and tapas, including the always amazing Jamon Iberico. This place is a must hit if you can get in.

Kukuchurro: Little did we know that churros were popular in (or even from?) Sevilla. There are many places all over, ranging from meh to great, and Kukuchurro definitely gets it right.

La Paella Sevilla: Another thing that is all over, we stopped to try this dish here, which is just a walk up shop in the heart of town. They have a couple tables on the sidewalk, otherwise, find a nice place nearby to sit and enjoy.

Crunch Cereal Cafe: This is exactly what it sounds like and just as good. Relive your childhood with a massive selection of cereals.

Alcazar Andalusi Tapas: This is a more formal (aka, sit-down) tapas restaurant in the Feria area. Like everywhere in Sevilla, they have a great wine selection, and amazing food in a cozy atmosphere.

Where We Drank

La Linterna Ciega: Probably our favorite beer bar of the trip. The owner Ricardo is a transplant from Florence, Italy who makes tapas style dishes blending his Tuscan roots and Andalucian home. We came here on our first day, and wandered in about an hour before they closed for the afternoon, and were fortunate to be the only ones there. Ricardo let us taste a few dishes he was working on (all were amazing) while we enjoyed a world class beer selection with offerings from all over the world and a healthy selection from local breweries.

La Jeronima: Right around the corner from La Linterna Ciega, this is a book store and craft beer bar with a cozy coffeehouse feel.

Hops and Dreams: If it weren’t for La Linterna Ciega, this would be our favorite beer spot of the trip. Of the three cities we went to the honeymoon (Porto, Sevilla, and Barcelona), Sevilla had far and away the best local beer scene, which is what is all on focus at Hops and Dreams.

La Barrica de Debla: A very small brewery and bar with a limited selection of tapas, they also have a house wine served directly from a few barrels behind the bar.

Bier Kraft: Another craft beer spot, this one right around the corner from our AirBnB in Feria. This is a great quiet spot to enjoy a beer or two on the sidewalk.

What We Did

Real Alcazar: These gorgeous gardens will be packed, but it’s definitely worth it. The estate was once home to Spanish royalty and you can wander around this labyrinthine place for hours on end.

Plaza de Espana: Another great place to wander around, the Plaza was built for an expo in 1928 and is absolutely stunning.

Setas de Sevilla: A more modern piece of architecture that is a bit controversial to locals, the Setas, or Mushrooms, are claimed to be the largest wooden structure in the world.

Catedral de Sevilla: Speaking of superlatives, this is the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world and the third largest church in the world. It was stunning, and be sure to wander around the courtyard that features a grove of Sevilla’s famous orange trees.

Mercado de Feria: This indoor market – the oldest in Sevilla – has 100s of stalls, making it a great place for a quick, easy, and cheap meal.

Alameda de Hercules: This long square in Feria is lined with bars and restaurants, making it a good destination if you’re not quite sure what you’re looking for.

Sevilla FC: Even if you’re not a soccer person, going to a top flight soccer match in Europe is worth the experience. Sevilla is home to two such clubs, so we made a point to take in a match one night. The stadium is walkable from downtown (if a bit far), and while there isn’t too much to do in the area, be sure to grab a sandwich before entering to eat at halftime.